Fear and surfing

Fear in surfing

The secret Always very low as if they are whispering a secret to my ear, those that just started surfing recently usually share with me this one thing: they felt afraid at some point. Their shaky voice carry some shame, as if feeling fear is something that unusual, an emotion that should make you feel everything but pride. For some … Read More



Some time ago a friend said I should tell mi story, it was important for the world to learn about it. I must announce that important event that left a mark on me forever. I asked him: “What can I give the world, if I have done nothing important in my life” His answer was concise: “Out there, there’s somebody … Read More

The future of wavepools: Wavegarden vs. Kelly’s Wave

Wavepool perfection

Right now I have no doubt that wave pools are a game changer. They have evolved to a point where they can generate actual waves I’d like to pay to surf. As a consumer, I like the idea of having options and the product refinement that will result from the competition between Wavegarden and Kelly’s Wave. I believe that the … Read More

Why Flow?

The sea, source of flow

I owe you an apology, I never really explained clearly why I started this blog or why I speak so much about flow. I didn’t state in a comprehensive way why this altered state of consciousness was so important to me, nor why I’m searching for a way to make you (and others like you) feel it as I had. … Read More