Jack Johnson and white sand

The white sand

Jack Johnson’s Losing Keys song is on the radio. It’s summer, a regular hot and windy as hell Tuesday, about 3PM. I’ve been driving bare feet, with the windows down, for about half an hour on a two way, narrow, road that stretches along a desert-looking coast. On both sides of the road there is nothing but endless red dirt plains.

The air makes a terrible noise when entering the car, but I prefer it to the heat I might have to bear.

The road goes uphill for a less than a kilometer and when I reach the top I see IT. The most beautiful scenery I could enjoy today: white sand on both sides of the road, clear blue sky on the front and turqouise waters by the right side. The song being played is a rather sad melody but it sounds so deep and moving right now. It is perfect for the moment, it makes me feel as if this chunk of time was tailored for me. This landscape, this melody and this weather makes me whole. I need nothing more in life right now: I have a loving wife and family, food on my table, a roof over my head and I can contemplate this every single day.

I feel like I’m the richest person alive, the luckiest man that has ever existed, but wait! How can I feel so good?

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I am unemployed, with little savings, I haven’t completed my engineering degree yet and I have no friends on this tiny town! Yet I know, this is going to be another great day. How can I be so sure? Shouldn’t I be worried about the future? Job security? Finishing my degree maybe? Finding friends?

Well, I’m going to surf at a spot that is so beautiful it seems fake. I’m going to be there for a couple of hours with some other regular surfers. Then I’m heading back home, feeling the post-surf chill, and afterwards I will try a new recipie for dinner, and my (future) wife if going to love it.

I’ve been repeating the same routine for the last month, when the internship I had ended. I decided to invest my time in something fulfulling and useful. So while my wife works her ass off I will do all the chores, learn to cook nice dishes, work on my degree’s final project and most of all: surf everyday at a spot that makes me feel unique. And this last item on the list, surfing, has become the cornerstone of satisfaction these days.

Some days I wake up feeling like a looser, and I have to drag myself out of bed, because I know it only takes a few waves to remove this sadness. Just sliding down the face of the first wave tosses the bad and fills me with joy, energy and appetite for life. My perspective changes afterwards and I’m focused on all the good in my life: my wife and her face after tasting a new dish I’ve made, my cat and her purr, this great weather and this amazing song that’s playing right now!

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