Fear and surfing

Fear in surfing

The secret Always very low as if they are whispering a secret to my ear, those that just started surfing recently usually share with me this one thing: they felt afraid at some point. Their shaky voice carry some shame, as if feeling fear is something that unusual, an emotion that should make you feel everything but pride. For some … Read More

How to foster creativity with flow

Flow at work, at the surf office

If you live in a developed country chances are your job requires creativity to be performed. Most of us are paid to solve problems, either complex ones like how to add a new metro line for the city, or trivial ones like choosing the right the paper cup color for the office Christmas party.  Either way, problem-solving thinking makes use … Read More

Scars

Cicatrices

Some time ago a friend said I should tell mi story, it was important for the world to learn about it. I must announce that important event that left a mark on me forever. I asked him: “What can I give the world, if I have done nothing important in my life” His answer was concise: “Out there, there’s somebody … Read More

The future of wavepools: Wavegarden vs. Kelly’s Wave

Wavepool perfection

Right now I have no doubt that wave pools are a game changer. They have evolved to a point where they can generate actual waves I’d like to pay to surf. As a consumer, I like the idea of having options and the product refinement that will result from the competition between Wavegarden and Kelly’s Wave. I believe that the … Read More

Edward Sharpe and the magnetic people

the magnetic people

So, today I was listening to one of the Daily Mix playlists Spotify had tailored for me, and a live performance of the famous “Home” (by Edward Sharpe and the magnetic zeroes) song started playing. The song being played is a very different version of what a live recordings usually sounds like. During certain part of the song, the singers … Read More

Jack Johnson and white sand

The white sand

Jack Johnson’s Losing Keys song is on the radio. It’s summer, a regular hot and windy as hell Tuesday, about 3PM. I’ve been driving bare feet, with the windows down, for about half an hour on a two way, narrow, road that stretches along a desert-looking coast. On both sides of the road there is nothing but endless red dirt … Read More

Surf: the way to master fear

Mastering fear with surf

It is weird to think about my teenage years. Most of the good memories wear an aura of mystery and spirituality. In my mind, they look like the tail of a comet, in a blend of colors: dark purple, bright white and black. The vast majority of them come from intimate moments I had alone in the water. Instants when … Read More

Why Flow?

The sea, source of flow

I owe you an apology, I never really explained clearly why I started this blog or why I speak so much about flow. I didn’t state in a comprehensive way why this altered state of consciousness was so important to me, nor why I’m searching for a way to make you (and others like you) feel it as I had. … Read More

Listen to the wise man

The wise man whispering in my ear

My heart is racing so fast it seems it’s going to explode. The same way it does when I hit the brakes, barely avoiding a car crash. Eyes wide open, looking for the tiger that’s running to kill me. I cant’s see it yet, but I know it has its mouth open and comes like a freight train. My mouth … Read More

Skating the cloth of reality

The strings of reality

On a skateboard, downhill, it’s a busy street. Cars pass by my right, people on the sidewalks look at me, I have the impression they do it with admiration. It’s past 6 pm and an orange sun is going down on a clear blue canvas. It’s a painting, not a regular sky, but an art piece that’s being made for … Read More